Just a few kilometers off the Chilean coast of South America is a rather large Island called Chiloe. The Island of Chiloe could easily be mistaken for Ireland with rainbows, myths of strange creatures, sea fairing tradition, potatoes, and an almost revolutionary view of the Island as an independent political entity. We want to introduce you to the communities of Quellon and an Ancud, along with some of the local flavors in terms of both food and politics.

The Island of Chiloe and Recent Chilean Politics

Chiloe has been isolated from the main land of Southern Chile for generations. There was at one point advanced plans to build a bridge to the main land over the channel, until the administration of Michelle Bachelet killed the plan in favor of building a road through Pumalin park. Across Chiloe you will see graphite declaring the independence of Chiloe from Chile. This regional political noise is really nothing to be concerned about as a visitor, and has never led to violence of any sort. It is more an expression of frustration with the government in Santiago that tends to ignore much of Southern Chile. Similar ideas are often found in the main land of Patagonia.



Quellon, Chiloe

Quellon, Chiloe is situated on the protected side of the Island facing the Chilean Patagonia. It is one of the more southern points of major civilization on the Island, and a crossing point for the fairy to Chaiten in the Patagonia.

The architecture of Quellon and most of Chiloe is what is strikingly different from the rest of Southern Chile. The boat building tradition of Chiloe was translated in to a tradition of wood working. The houses and buildings all have a feeling as if they would float, and are often perched above the bay on wood stilts. The wood churches of Chiloe are a U.N. protected historical land marks, and a major tourist attraction.

The tradition in Chiloe is to build your house on the hill near the source of wood, then invite the whole community for a big party to help move it down to the coast. Everyone brings their Ox to help pull the house on runners. This tradition is dying, but not as much as you would expect. Having an excuse to throw a big party seams to be sufficient reason by itself to keep the tradition alive. This community self-help tradition is still very much carried on, and indeed a point of serious pride among the people of Chiloe.

Quellon itself is beautiful, but nothing special against the backdrop of Southern Chile, and Chiloe in particular. It sits perched on a hill overlooking the bay. It is however the gateway to the wilder lands to the South including national parks and the whale reserve at the southern tip of Chiloe. Access to the whale marine reserves are by boat, and takes about four hours.

Ancude

Ancude, Chiloe is located on the northern end of Chiloe and a bit easier to access. It is about two hours by car or bus from Puerto Montt, with a short fairy ride across the channel. Ancude is the place for seafood and good restaurants. It is also about an hour from the Penguin nature reserve.

In terms of seafood, you really should be on the lookout for the traditional dishes of Chiloe. The more famous ones are the Coronto. A stew of whole muscles in the shell and other seafood along with Chiloe's famous potatoes (there are over 100 different types of potatoes in Chiloe), placed together in a ceramic pot and berried in the ground to slowly cook. Most restaurants in Ancude will serve this dish.




Travel to Chiloe, time how and when to go.

Be aware that it does rain in Chiloe almost all year. It is after all an Island. That said, even in the winter time the rain comes and goes about every 10 to 15 mins, followed by a standard serving of Chiloe rainbows, and then sun for about 15 mins. Just don't go walking around assuming you do not need your rain jacket, even in the summer time.

Your next major airport will be Puerto Montt. Busses leave from the Puerto Mont bus station about every 15 to 30 mins. Cruz del Sur is the major bus line, and they also operate the fairy. The fairy is included in the price of the ticket, and if the weather in the Channel cooperates typically provides great photos.