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Chile Home Lake Budi The Mapuche Indians of Lago Budi ( Lake Budi )
The Mapuche Indians of Lago Budi ( Lake Budi ) |
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...the water from the tsunami suddenly raised the level of the lake,
but the water never receded back into the ocean...
| Lago Budi is one of those geological wonders of the World that defies proper description. As South America's only salt water lake, situated just a few Kilometers from the Pacific ocean, it is as if Lake Tahoe was directly on the California Coast. From the high ridges on the eastern side, you can look out over the lake to the ocean; you feel, as much as hear, the ocean surf crashing on the beach and echoing across Lago Budi. |
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It is obvious why the Mapuche Indians of Lago Budi have so jealously guarded this natural wonder for hundreds of years. Well, not so anymore. The Mapuche nation is extending an invitation to the World to share the natural wonders of Lago Budi, and to learn about the Lafkenche culture and explore the communities around the Lake. |
| The Mapuche community around Lago Budi, have recently started a sustainable development project to build a tourism industry. They wish to both be able to share and preserve Lake Budi, and build an economic base for the community. This is part historical, part environmental, part economic, and part a cultural preservation project. Around Lago Budi, these issues are hard to unwind, and perhaps better dealt with together. |
The Economy of Lago Budi
The towns along the lake have for the most part only recently turned an eye towards tourism. The remote nature of these towns, along with the complex political history of the Mapuche, has left few opportunities for the residents. Add to this unfortunate history one the worst tsunami in the recorded history. The tsunami that struck Lake Budi, and most of the Southern Chile coast in 1960, occurred after a series of earth quakes across the region of Southern Chile that also set World records, ranging from 7.5 to 9.5 quakes and aftershocks over three days. At Lago Budi, the water from the tsunami suddenly raised the level of the lake, but the water never receded back into the ocean; many of the towns situated on the shores of the lake still have portions underwater.
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The Culture of Lago BudiThe Mapuche Indians have a long history of battling for their sovereignty and independence. They have managed to for the most part retain much of their traditions through isolating themselves from the Chilean population. However, as with many indigenous tribes around the world, the pressures of the modern world have started to take their toll. The younger generation has slowly been drawn away jobs in larger cities such as Temuco and Santiago.
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The Lago Budi area has been home of the Lafkenche. In the Mapuche Language, Mapudungun, Lafkenche means “people from the ocean". They have been living in what has been known as the Lafkenmapu ( the coastal land ) long before the Spanish conquistadors arrived. Even today, on the western side of Lake Budi, you can find the Mapuche Lafkenche living in traditional mapuche houses or rukas. One of the more impressive destinations around Lago Budi is Huapi Island. This is actually not an island, but a series of peninsulas located in the southwest part of the lake.
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| It is in the above context that the local communities is working to preserve their way of life. Lago Budi as a whole is one of the more interesting tourism development projects in Southern Chile. Much of it is done with private funds. The Mapuche people in particular have begun a series of projects to build infrastructure and promote Lake Budi as a tourist destination on their own, and with private grants. The project involves communities directly on Lago Budi, and communities from Boca Budi to Isla Huapi. |
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Puerto Dominguez
Puerto Dominguez is one of the main towns on the Eastern side of the lake. In central Puerto Domínguez you are greeted by three enormous wood statues made by a local artist. These are the first in a series of statues being setup around the town to depict the history of the Mapuche people, and lake Budi. You will also find a local tourism information office; but, to be honest, the town is sufficiently small that you can ask anyone for information.
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| The communities around Lake Budi have invested a lot into constructing a series of modern cabins, opening restaurants, along with building replicas of the Mapuche Rukas. They are also working on suppling all forms of accommodation and resources necessary to enjoy this phenomenal area. The Lake people have additionally organizing many special programs that will allow visitors to access the Lafkenche communities and their culture on the lake. |
Stay with the Mapuche Lafkenche
In what is one of the better ideas, the Mapuche mixed modern tourism cabins with traditional Mapuche Ruka style home. For a family adventure in Southern Chile, this is the a great option. Directly next to a modern, full comfort cabin, is a traditional Mapuche Ruka. Even the Ruka comes with a few modern features such as lights and beds. It is better described as a taste of life in a Ruka. It would let mom and dad have a good night sleep, while the kids enjoy a night camping out in the Ruka.
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Hiking, Backpacking, and Mountain Biking around Lago Bud
There are many guided and unguided hiking tours of the Lake. The lake area has many campgrounds, cabins, and hostels near the communities scattered along the lake shore. The lake itself is very large, with a winding shore that could easily consume a week of hiking the full circuit; however, the time will be well spent getting to know the people in the area, and exploring some of the more remote parts of the Lago Budi. If it all becomes too much, hitching a ride on either a boat, bus, or a pickup truck to get to civilization is a fairly easy from any part of the Lake. Mountain Biking would be an ideal option for covering the most territory around the lake. Even by Bike, a week would still be recommended to do proper justice to all the great places on the lake.
Culture and Events
Throughout the year, the Mapuche have organized various events to introduce visitors to their culture. One of the more interesting is the Mapuche New Year that falls on the Solstice in June, or the shortest day of the year in South America.
Getting to the Puerto Dominguez ( the Eastern Lake Budi )
To reach the eastern parts of Lago Budi you must pass through the main town of Puerto Dominguez (87 km from Temuco). The fastest way to Puerto Dominguez is by a well maintained and heavily traveled dirt road from Carahue (47 km), or from Hualpin from the South. We are told the road is better during the rainy season because the rain helps to control the dust. There is also a ferry that makes the rounds to all the major towns on Lago Budi.
Ideally, to really explore the Lake you would do it by renting a car in Temuco. There is bus service to most of the rural communities on Lake Budi, but time will be needed. Waiting an hour for a bus on the side of the road seems much easier in such a beautiful place as Lago Budi.
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