Valdivia
is one of those cities that tends to get skipped on the major tours
of Southern Chile. It sits just slightly off the main highway system,
and thus it take another 30 to 40 minutes to reach it. People do not
just stop by as they do in Puerto Montt or Temuco on their way to
other points south. That said, it is more than worth the effort.
The
tour boats anchored near the fish market and the now famous sea lions
of Valdivia, are one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to know
the area. Tickets range from about 5,000 Chilean pesos to about
15,000 Chilean pesos, and are more than worth the price. In the
summer high season you can also take dinner cruses.
Our
trip was on the Bahia Patagonia, a small cruze ship that operates all
year around. Their evening cruz through the wetland nature reserves
around Valdivia includes a stop for a tour of the local Mapuche
village of Punucapa just across the river from the more modern city
of Valdivia.
The
wetlands are most famously home to the Black Neck swans. The pairs of
swans would take off and land alongside the ship as it made its way
through the open water of the marsh. Hundreds of other species call
the nature reserve home, and seem to take little notice of the slow
boat passing through. It is one of those rare places where fresh
water and salt water species mix easily.
Among
other things, and by far our favorite stop, was a visit to a Mapuche
brewery in Punucapa for a shot of Chicha, a traditional Chilean
drink. Among other things the Mapuche have been working hard to
produce Chicha and Cider for export and a few thousand pesos will get
you some bottles for the road.
Be
prepared in the winter time for a cold ride back in the dark, but
even this was spectacular as the ship rounded the bend and the city
lights of Valdivia suddenly filled the banks of the river.
Valdivia 
